A typical Lyonnais "bouchon" in Paris

This is how Erwan Humbert introduces himself. He adds that his thing is organic farming, but that, we suspected. It is enough to see his farm: nothing but natural, all pure natural. And you also just have to follow his Twitter account (because you can be a peri-urban farmer and be perfectly connected): the recurring theme is the weather. A truth that we probably tend to forget: it is nature that rules, from the moment of sowing until harvest. Marie-Victorine is part of his fan club. She finds there her most beautiful vegetables. And all this about thirty kilometres from Paris, in Essonne. Real farm to fork !

It is Marie-Victorine who says so and we have every reason to believe her. In any case, it is a piece of her life. She has childhood memories with her godfather, Marcel Lapierre, the grandson of Michel who created the winery in 1909. Even today, when she meets with Camille and her brother Mathieu in the cellars, she feels at home. So it's no surprise that the Beaujolais crus occupy a good place on the wine list of the restaurant. And as, at Aux Lyonnais, “we are very thirsty”, as Paul Bocuse said, Antoine Boulin, the sommelier, also has some nice discoveries for you in his cellar, Burgundy, Côtes du Rhône and Vallée du Rhône.

Nothing is ordinary in this story. The setting, first of all: the scene takes place in Ardèche. Some would say the region is tough. It's not false. Indeed, these old mountains of the Massif Central experience very snowy winters. The heroine, then: it is a native of the Netherlands, Bernadine Jonker, who came to settle there to raise pigs. Not just any. Mangalica, a breed originating in Hungary, close to the wild boar and endowed with a woolly fleece which would make them almost look like sheep. The farm is located in a place called Les Soies, in the area of Saint-Symphorien de Mahun, about twenty kilometres south-west of Annonay. Decidedly, the story is not ordinary: it turns out that Marie-Victorine's grandmother lived not far away. When the chef met the breeder, the story became a story of friendship. To our delight, to us, the eaters, because the meat of this animal is exceptionally tasty, marbled and tender. Marie-Victorine brings one, whole, every fortnight. All pieces are used. To find out more, look at the pretty drawing by Marine Philomen Roux on one of the room's mirrors and ask Gabrielle Aguilo, the room manager. Disover the cuisine